Day One

• Coffee at Café Bazar
• Salzburg Cathedral
• Festung Hohensalzburg • Lunch at the Stadtalm
• Museum der Moderne
• Getreidegasse
• Picnic by the Salzach

Any perfect holiday in Europe must start with a cup of coffee and Austria is the rule rather than the exception. Coffee first came to Austria during the Siege of Vienna in 1683. When the Austrians successfully chased the Turkish invaders away, bags of coffee were left behind and the Austrian coffee culture was born. Sitting serenely along the bank of the Salzach you will find Café Bazar, a quintessential Viennese coffee house. Settle in for a Großer Brauner and enjoy a rich cup of black coffee with a portion of cream and a glass of water on the side. Take one of the many newspapers you will find hanging on sticks from the coatrack and immerse in Austrian coffee culture for a relaxing start to your day. Lingering is expected so don’t feel the need to rush. Order a decadent pastry and take in breathtaking views of the historic city before setting off on your first day in Salzburg.

Next stop, the Salzburg Cathedral. Leaving Café Bazar, head across the river to the old town. As you cross the Staatsbrücke, be sure and glance up at the Ampelpärchen (traffic light couples) at every crossing. Installed in 2015 these LGBTQ crosswalk lights are meant to send a message of welcome and support for love of all kinds.

The Salzburg Cathedral or “The Dom” as it is called, is one of Salzburg’s most important sacred buildings. This imposing tribute to the early Baroque anchors the city and is filled with treasures. Don’t miss French artist Christian Boltanski’s “Vanitas” installation tucked away in a small room in the choir crypt. This modern “Danse Macabre” features 12 slender metal figures dancing to flickering candle light while a shadowy angel of death echoes the time. You will find the baptismal font where Mozart was baptized and, if you look closely, some nearly 400 year old graffiti scratched into the Untersberg marble entryway.

On to the Festung Hohensalzburg. Built in the year 1077 the Hohensalzburg Fortress was constructed to protect the principality and the archbishops from hostile attacks. Salt was a hot commodity and thus Salzburg (translation Salt Mountain) was vulnerable. Sitting high above the baroque old city, the Salzburg Fortress is the biggest fully preserved castle in Central Europe. Your visit by way of Fortress Funicular will cost €16.60 and combines all of the fortress highlights including the Ranier Regimental Weapons Museum, a small but wonderful museum tracing the history of both the city and Salzburg’s famous Marionette puppets. Three times daily you will be treated to the sound of the Salzburg Bull, a 200-pipe organ from 1502 said to be the worlds largest mechanical musical instrument. After a full morning of touring the Fortress, you will be ready for lunch.

Stay high on the Mönchsberg above the city and follow one of the wooded paths to the Stadtalm. Take in the spectacular panoramic view of old Salzburg and dive into a hearty Austrian meal. The Stadtalm has all of the traditional favorites including knödel and goulash and a perfectly breaded schnitzel. In Austria it is typical to eat more substantially at lunch and have a lighter dinner, so go ahead and order that apple strudel for dessert!

Stuffed and content, you will appreciate a little stroll to help digest your lunch. Leave the Stadtalm and continue on the foot path to the Museum der Moderne at the far end of the Mönchsberg. Opened in 2004, this modern art museum boasts four levels of exhibition space for treasures from the 20th and 21st centuries. If you fancy modern art, you will surely find something captivating behind the massive Untersberg marble facade. When you have had your fill, take the elevator back down to street level and you will find yourself on Gstättengasse in the old town. Wind your way along the cobbled street to the Getreidegaße, Salzburg’s famous shopping street. If you are ready for an afternoon aperitif, stop in at Sporer Likör und
Punschmanufaktur.

Housed in the narrowest house on the Geteridegaße, Sporer has been distilling fine Schnaaps and liqueurs for over a hundred years. Known as both a specialty shop for spirits and a popular meeting place, join the locals spilling on to the street and enjoy a glass of wine or classic house blend liqueur. Before leaving Sporer, grab a bottle of wine to go and get ready for a picnic by the Salzach for dinner. In the shadow of the Collegiate Church on Universitäsplatz you will find everything you need at the Salzburg Green Market. For 150 years Salzburg locals and tourists alike have passed by the Grünmarkt for their daily shopping needs. For cheese however, you will want to stop in at the Kaselöchl at Hagenauerplatz 2 on your way to the river. A tiny mouse- sized cheese shop, the Kaselöchl is stuffed with alpine varieties from the creamiest to the stinkiest. Open until 18:00 Monday – Friday and 15:00 on Saturday, the Kaselöchl is not to be missed. Now it is time for a relaxing picnic along the banks of the Salzach and a well deserved rest on a park bench!

Day Two

• Hike the Untersberg • Hochalm
• Augusteiner Brau

From any vantage point in Salzburg, you can’t help but stare up at the imposing Untersberg mountain in the distance. Just 10 km from downtown Salzburg, the Untersberg straddles the borders of Austria and Germany. An impressive mass of granite, marble and salt, many of the cities famous landmarks were crafted from Untersberg marble. For the fit and adventurous, a day spent on the Untersberg is a must while visiting Salzburg. You will need sturdy hiking shoes and good stamina for the 7 mile (round trip) loop. Not for the faint of heart, expect a climb of 4,500 vertical feet and thousands of stairs!
Your reward will be spectacular views of the entire Salzburg region. If you don’t want to make the loop, then hop on the Untersbergbahn cable car for the descent….or for that matter you can take the Untersbergbahn both directions and just enjoy a leisurely stroll atop Austria! The Untersberg trailhead can be accessed by car or public transportation. From the Mozartsteg take Bus #25 towards Grodig and get off at Grodig Zentrum. Transfer to Bus #35 towards Fürstenbrunn and get off at Dopplerstraße. You will find the trail head just around the corner to the right.

Time to Wander! The Austrians pay close attention to trail marking so don’t worry about losing your way. You will follow Trail 460 Dopplersteg to the top of the mountain. Look for these yellow signs and small markings on trees and stones with the Austrian flag. The route is challenging but rewarding. You will pass by raging waterfalls and trickling streams, through meadows bursting with wildflowers.
The Dopplersteig itself is a narrow stone path hugging the side of the mountain. A taut cable will help you navigate the trail but freedom from vertigo is a must. As you pass the cable car station, continue for another 30 minutes to the Salzburger Hochthron. At 6,473 feet you will be on the highest peak on the Untersberg. Take in the unsurpassed and magical views of Salzburgerland and fill your lungs with the freshest air Austria has to offer.

By now you have earned your lunch and the Hochalm is the perfect spot to stop. A beautiful and traditional hut with a cozy wooded inside and expansive porch outside, it is easy to pass an hour or two at the Hochalm. Try a plate of their Käsespätzle and don’t forget to top off your meal with some housemade Zirben Schnaaps made from pinecones collected on the mountain. Be sure to have a little cash on hand, the folks at the Hochalm won’t accept credit cards.

It is time to head back down the mountain and take a ride on the Untersbergbahn. Construction started on the Untersbergbahn in 1959 and was finished two years later in 1961. For 60 years this monster cable car has been shuttling outdoor enthusiasts up and down Untersberg Mountain. The Untersbergbahn operates from 08:30-17:30 and your one way ticket back down will cost you €10.

Bus 25 will return you to Salzburg and you are ready for an evening of fun at the Augustiner Brau. When you think of Bavaria you may think Beer Garden and in Salzburg you will find Austria’s largest beer garden in Mülln.

The Augustiner Brau boasts a chestnut tree lined garden for the intimate seating of 1,400 reveling people. Since 1621 crowds have gathered to drink beer drawn from wooden barrels and served in stone steins. If the weather is foul, you can enjoy your beer in one of the massive halls inside. Even with a ginormous capacity, the Augustiner Brau is popular and crowded. Don’t be shy, if you see a few extra seats at one of the long wooden tables just ask your fellow beer enthusiasts if you can join them. When you are hungry, head over to the Schmankerlgang, a boisterous food arcade. Be sure to try the thinly sliced radishes twirled into rings and a crisp Schweinehaxen with saurkraut. Open from 15:00 until 23:00, a night at Augustiner Brau will be a night to remember!

Day Three

• Sound of Music by Bike • Original Bosna Stand
• Salzburg Würstlstand
• Mozart’s Geburtshaus
• Cafe Tomaselli • Pasta y Vino

If there are two things associated with Salzburg..they are the Sound of Music and Mozart. Your third day in Salzburg is dedicated to both. Start the day with Frauline Maria’s Sound of Music by Bike Tour. Every day at 09:30 you can set out to discover all of your favorite Sound of Music sites by bicycle. This easy 8 mile ride will be a whiskers on kittens barrel of fun. When on a bicycle you get up close and personal to many of the sites seen in the famous movie (as opposed to staring at them from a bus window). The tour is filled with behind the scene stories and von Trapp trivia. Frauline Maria will provide everything you need for 3 and 1/2 hours of Sound of Music fun. Reservations recommended.

Lunch today will be Salzburg Street Food. Take your pick from the Original Bosna Stand and/or one of several Würstl stands on Universitätsplatz. Tucked away in a small passage between the Getreidegaße and Universitätsplatz, you will find the Balkan Grill. In 1949 Bulgarian Zanko Todoroff used a “secret recipe” to prepare the first Bosna in the Müller Bräustübl. It quickly became a well known indulgence in the city and Todoroff was able to open his own snack stand, the Balkan Grill. Open from 11:00 – 19:00 during the week and 14:00 – 19:00 on Saturday, join the crowd lined up for a taste of this delicious pork sausage wrapped in a soft white bun. Our
suggestion? Of course the original #2 slathered in onions, parsley and Todoroff’s “secret sauce.”

Although you will be tempted for a second Bosna, save yourself for a go at a Salzburg Würstlstand. You will find several lined up on Universitätsplatz. Protocol is to order at the stand and loiter while you eat standing up. You can get a beer or a soft drink and don’t forget to ask for “senf und kren” (mustard and horseradish). There are many varieties to choose from but our favorite is the käsekrainer, a juicy pork sausage stuffed with cheese.

Ahh, at last….Salzburg’s prodigal son, Wolfgang Amadeus Mozart. Born on the third floor of a quaint house on the Getreidegaße on January 17, 1756, Mozart has long been the pride of Salzburg. Wolfgang and his sister “Nannerl” learned to play the clavier at a young age. By the time he was four, Mozart could learn a song in just 30 minutes. At age 11 he wrote his first opera, Apollo et Hyacinthus. A genius composer Mozart would eventually compose more than 600 musical works and influence other maestros like Beethoven and Tchaikovsky. Mozart died in December of 1791 at 35 years old in Vienna. Although rumored to have been poisoned, the probable cause of death was a fatal strep infection.

A highlight for any Mozart fan will be a visit to Getreidegaße 9, Hagenauer Haus, Mozarts Geburtshaus. Today the famous composer’s birthplace is one of the most visited museums in Austria. An hour long tour allows you to amble through the apartment and feel like you have been transported back to the days of Mozart.

A treasured tradition in Salzburg is an afternoon cup of coffee and slice of cake, an experience every visitor to Salzburg must have. A short walk from Mozart’s Birth House you will find Cafe Tomaselli on the Alter Markt. The Tomaselli family has run this Salzburg icon for 150 years. The origins of Cafe Tomaselli can be traced back to 1700, easily establishing it as the oldest coffee house in Austria. Only the best quality ingredients are used to create a fabulous display of handcrafted desserts.

A glass cabinet boasts a rich selection of treats ranging from the classic Sachertorte and raspberry filled Linzertorte to thick and flaky slices of apple strudel served with a dollop of fresh whipped cream. If you are visiting during the summer, be sure to order a scoop of Ribesaleis. This homemade tart red current ice cream is only available during Ribesal season so don’t miss the opportunity to taste this special treat. An afternoon at Tomaselli is not the time to count calories so order away and enjoy.

Final stop for the day, dinner at Pasta & Vino. If you have had your fill of rich Bavarian food take a stroll back over the Salzach to Wolf Dietrichstraße 21 and enjoy the best Italian meal you will find outside of Italy. Every day three pasta dishes and an assortment of anti pasta are offered up in this small restaurant as cosy as an Italian family’s kitchen. Open from 11:30 – 21:20, Pasta & Vino is often booked so be sure to make a reservation. +43662873487.

 

It is time for bed after 3 Perfect Days in Salzburg. If you are lucky enough to spend another day….come back to My Secret Salzburg for the scoop on a bonus day!