It is December in Salzburg and that means one thing in Austria (and most other German-speaking countries), Christmas Markets! Dating back to medieval times, the first “winter market” can be traced back to 1296. One cold December morning Duke Albert I, granted shopkeepers the right to hold a market in Vienna’s town square for a few days. He thought it would add color to the frigid winter days and give the people a chance to stock up on supplies to last through the harsh Austrian winter. He called this the “Winter Market” and although not specifically holiday themed, it is loosely known as the father of the modern-day Christmas Market. Local families would set up stalls selling food and handmade crafts. The townspeople would gather together for some shopping, socializing and the buying of small gifts to give away at Christmas.
In Salzburg it is the Christkindlmarkt that will greet you the month of December. Although much more commercialized, people still gather to shop, socialize and stock up on gifts to give away at Christmas! Traditionally celebrated throughout Advent, Salzburg’s Christmas Market has come to life at the foot of Hohensalzburg Fortress since the 15th century. Today it has oozed from the Cathedral square to the Residenzplatz and it seems as if the city were created for a picture perfect magical Christmas holiday season.
Tune your senses because they are about to be bombarded. The air is filled with the smell of chestnuts roasting and mulled wine simmering. Children zigzag between the crowd to get a glimpse at the model train set chugging along a wintry track. Lights twinkle from one stall to the next as bundled shopkeepers greet you with a cheerful “Grüss Gott”. Beeswax candles flicker, glass ornaments sparkle, and wooden smoking “Räucherman” figures puff their incense into the cold December air.
When you go to the Christkindlmarkt, don’t be in a rush. Take your time. Have a steaming cup of Glühwein and wander through the crowd without purpose. Buy something you don’t need and something you have been longing for. A cozy pair of sheepskin slippers. A wooden train set that spells out your name. A haughty nutcracker. If you are lucky it will be snowing and every breath you take will fill your lungs with that delectable combination of fresh air and frost. Take it in and enjoy the magic.
Glühwein or Punsch?
One of the hardest decisions you will have to make at the Christmas Market is if you are on team Glühwein or Team Punsch? Either will give you that warm fuzzy feeling from head to toe, but it is the rare reveller who enjoys both. Glühwein literally translates to “Glow Wine” which seems about right considering how you will feel after drinking a few warm mugs of the spiced mulled red wine at the Christkindlmarkt. Punsch on the other hand is considered to be liquid Yuletide. Rumored to have been brought to Salzburg by Mozart (who discovered it during his travels), Punsch is an orange alcoholic brew infused with ginger, cardamon, cloves and cinnamon mixed with hot water (and occasionally a touch of red wine).
If you really need warmed up, head for the Feuerzangenbowle Stand. Served from large copper pots, this toasty treat is fired up by a rum-soaked sugarloaf set on fire and dripping into the mulled wine.
The price of either cup of cheer will include a deposit for the mug. Once you return the mug you will get the deposit back or…you could always start a Christkindlmarkt Mug Collection! It has been known to happen.
What’s to eat?
Arrive hungry because you will want to eat your way through the Christkindlmarkt. Anna prefers to start dinner with dessert. A heaping pile of Kaiserschmarrn. Kaiser Franz Joseph I was fond of the fluffy, shredded sweet pancake dusted with powdered sugar and plum jam and many Austrians wholeheartedly agree with his assessment of deliciousness. The name “Kaiserschmarrn” comes from “Kaiser” (Franz Joseph) and “Schmarren” which can mean mishmash or mess or nonsense. Belly up to a warm bowl of nonsense and eat like a Kaiser!
Last night, while wandering through the market, some friends introduced me to something new, Bauernkrapfen. Popular throughout Bavaria and Austria, this fried dough arrives piping hot and covered in sauerkraut. You can fold it like a taco or eat it with the small wooden spoon. Either way, you will surely find it delicious.
If there is anything that makes me think “Christmas Market” it is the smell of warm candied nuts. Follow your nose to the sweet, sticky hut and fill up a “Papiertüte” of your favorites. Served in a paper cone, the hardest part will be deciding which flavor to try?
The classic cinnamon dusted Gebrannte Mandeln (almonds), cocoa dusted macadamia nuts, cashews coated in spicy sugar, sweet crunchy pecans or my favorite, pumpkin seeds. If you simply can’t decide you can always get a mixed cone and enjoy a little of everything.
You will find hot baked potatoes with all of the fixin’s, steaming bowls of goulash soup, wurstl ready to dip in spicy mustard, thin slices of prosciutto layered on a soft pretzel, deep-fried rings of crisp apples dusted in sugar, and rows and rows of sweet treats.
The Salzburg Christkindlmarkt is open from 10:00am – 8:30pm Monday Thursday. Fridays and December 7th from 10:00am – 9:00pm. Saturdays from 9:00am – 9:00pm. and Sundays from 9:00am – 8:30pm.
December 24th from 9:00am – 3:00pm. December 25th from 11:00am – 6:00pm.
December 26th will be your last chance to visit. The market will be open from 11:00am – 6:00pm. After that you will have to wait until November 22nd 2019 for the fun to begin again!
Before you leave, be sure to stop by for a some New Years Glück (luck). Everyone needs a lucky horseshoe with a personalized message for the New Year!
Salzburg is truly a wondorus
Place. And seeing this through your great pictures as you share them makes me want to be there again! Happy Holidays!
Love, love, love!!
sign me up!
My mouth is watering. How is it that in 60 years I’ve never seen those copper cauldrons? The last bit of magic is a dusting of snow, assuming proper warm attire.