Tucked inconspicuously on a corner just over the Makartsteg, Alexander Czekanowski sits happily on a folding camp chair drawing. He leans against a graffiti splattered power box and smiles as people pass by. His paints are worn from daily use, his chin slightly grizzled, his eyes squint from years of sitting in the sunshine. There are a dozen watercolor artists in Salzburg, but there is something special about Alexander’s work…and Alexander. If you are in the market for an Aquarelle memento, it is definitely worth roaming over the Salzach to find Alexander Czekanowski.
Originally from Poland, Czekanowski trained as an architect in Kraków. He later studied film at the University of Lodz before settling in as a television director. Life and circumstance toppled his world in Kraków, so nearly ten years ago he moved to Salzburg for a fresh start. Never formally educated in painting, Czekanowski paints by feel. He has a photographic memory and can reproduce a sketch time and again after one drawing. His work is full of movement. He masterfully captures the roiling Salzach, brings to life the cobbled streets and fills his work with vibrant color…jade church steeples, brooding purple skies, salmon colored store fronts. For anywhere from €20 for one of the smallest prints to €75 for one of the largest, Czekanowski recreates every corner of Salzburg. If you fancy a rendition of the Mirabell Garden, you will find one in full bloom with water spraying from the Baroque fountain. If you love St. Peter’s Abby, you will find it’s copper dome peeking over the Salzburg skyline. Famous sights and hidden passageways, Alexander brings them all to life in watercolor.
I asked him if he makes a pretty good living? “I don’t need much” he said. He pays the city for the right to peddle his wares on the corner and lives a happy but frugal life. On a slow day he will sell just a few paintings but always hopes for more. He, like immigrants all over the world, misses his homeland. “My friends are there…my heart is there” he says of Kraków “but Salzburg is such a beautiful city, I can’t complain”.
After you have left Salzburg and nothing remains but the afterglow of your last schnitzel and Stiegl Pilsner, you may want something special to remember your visit. Cross the walking bridge in the middle of town (Makartsteg) and give Alexander a visit. You will find him there when the weather cooperates between 10:00 am – 4:00 pm., smiling, drawing and creating watercolor memories.
JJ, I love when you take the time to find out the stories (of the people) behind the various Salzburg scenes. Of course, you deliver those stories in a way that just makes me want to savor them over a cup of Kaffee mit Schlag. Keep them coming 🙂
Hi! My husband and I spent our 10th wedding anniversary in Salzburg and bought a painting by Alexander Czekanowski . Unfortunately, we lost it in our travels. Do you know if there is a way to contact him? We are heartbroken that we lost it.
Just bought a painting from him à few days ago. If you’re still looking for a way to contact him, his e-mail is: aczekan@gmail.com.
Luce
OMG! I’m just in the process of doing up a “upublish” book of my wife’s and my favourite holiday ever (September, 2008) and at the point of transcribing the journal entry of our conversation with Aleksander, I thought I’d see if I could find him on the internet. Thank you so much, JJvC, for the great article and pictures that bring back so many memories of this wonderful man and work, as well as place. On our return home, we put beautiful matte and framing around the 50 Euro watercolour we bought from him at that same spot on that September 29, and it has been proudly displayed in our living room ever since!
So sorry things in his life seem to have changed. If there was an address to reach Aleksander, we’d love to receive it so we can send him a thanks and greeting.
I have two water colors from 1980. They hang with pride on my living room wall.