One of the first stops I like to make upon arriving in Salzburg is at a Würstlstand. Sprinkled around the Universitätsplatz on the north end of old town, there are several walkup “sausage stands” to choose from. There is something magical about bellying up and being welcomed by my choice of sausage served with a generous helping of grated horseradish and mustard. Throw in a Stiegl beer and “Welcome to Salzburg!” For the first time visitor though, the Würstlstand can be a bit overwhelming. Where to start?
Protocol is simple. Line up and choose your sausage from the photo menu posted at the stand. All of the sausages are served by the pair. Your first question will be “Süss or Sharf?” which refers to your mustard preference. “Süss” is the slightly sweet mustard Kremser and “Sharf” is the spicier Estragon mustard. You will also be asked if you would like “Kren?” and if the answer is yes, you will have a pile of fresh horseradish grated onto your plate. Take your pick of bread then find a place to stand at the edge of the stand and indulge. Even though the sausage could be considered “fast food”, whatever you do, don’t take your würstl and walk around town eating it. In general it would be considered quite gauche to walk around eating anything in Salzburg, so do so only if you want to stand out as a typical tacky tourist.
Weisswürst
This Bavarian white sausage is typically made from minced veal and pork and happens to be Omi’s favorite. It is flavored with parsley, lemon and onion and is the only sausage you eat peeled. When eating Weisswürst (also referred to as Münchner) your choice of mustard is definitely the sweet Kremser mustard. Traditionally the Münchner is made early in the morning and meant to be eaten before noon. As it is not a smoked sausage and has no preservatives, an old saying goes “the Münchner should never hear the chiming of the noon church bells”. So, if it is a Weisswürst you are craving get to the Würstlstand early!
If I had a dollar for every Käsekrainer my children have eaten over the years, I would be a rich woman! It is their “go to” favorite at home or at the Würstlstand. A mild beef and pork sausage seasoned with pepper and garlic the Käsekrainer is a family favorite for the chunks of swiss cheese stuffed inside. Typically served with the spicy Estragon mustard and a generous helping of horseradish, your Käsekrainer will arrive sliced and oozing cheese over the plate. No worries you will be given a miniature fork to eat with to keep your fingers clean!
If you are craving a typical “hot dog” taste you will want to order up a pair of Frankfurter. Invented by Frankfurt trained butcher Johann Georg Lahner, Austrians have been enjoying this long, thin, pure pork sausage since 1805. A very mild sausage with a thin casing, the Frankfurter keeps most Austrian children alive for the first ten years of life. Best with a dollop of Estragon and kren, feel free to eat it with your fingers, dipping each bite in the mustard and horseradish.
If you are looking for something with more of a bite, choose a juicy pair of Debreziner. Named after the Hungarian city of Debrecen, this reddish/orange sausage packs a flavorful spicy punch. All pork and flavored with garlic, paprika and pepper, the Debreziner is my personal favorite. The casing cracks between your teeth with every bite and again, is meant to be eaten with the fingers. Definitely choose the spicy mustard and ask for extra horseradish if you really want to clear your nostrils!
The much thicker Pustakrainer also has Hungarian roots and is heavily spiced with paprika giving it a deep red color. The generous addition of garlic and pepper add zesty flavor. Another pure pork sausage the Pustakrainer is chunkier and heartier then the Debreziner. A definite candidate for spicy mustard and horseradish, a pair of Pustakrainer will satisfy even the hungriest visitor.
So, when you first arrive in Salzburg, don’t hesitate to make your first stop at one of the Würstlstands on the Universitätsplatz. Actually, a stop at a Würstlstand everyday would be completely appropriate!